Some of what has happened in “the duck pond” this week:
Another Mini Skeeter fuselage back from the painter.
Small celebration today, my boat is ready to paint! Finished the sanding, rolled her outside and washed her down. Monday I’ll tape her off and wait for Christmas break to roll the paint. I just want to thank all of you for the support in building my boat. You have been fun to share this adventure with. Next time you see pictures she will be Haze Gray! GO NAVY!
Stephen E Foster
I like finally using the cabin on my new boat!
For simple boats a simple toilet idea. Smaller pails also work.
Another THORN Dinghy soon on the water. Nice job Ben! For plans visit www.roydesignedthat.com
Seneca Pacific Power Dory
William Atkinson’s Seneca Pacific Power Dory. This is designed at 14′ but William lengthened it to 15 by re-spacing the frames. This is fine on this and other of my framed boats so long as you don’t go too far. More info on this boat with free downloadable study prints including a Bill of Materials:
A very well built 17′ Kachemak V-Bottom Dory in Michigan. It looks like an inlet in Lake Huron. Free downloadable study prints including a Bill of Materials can be downloaded at:
Replacing/maintaining the sacrificial fiberglass mat today on sharpie’s keel, skeg and bottom of the barn door rudder. Peel ply (cheap polyester shower curtain from walmart) allowed me to apply two layers of mat with cloth over radiused corners in one shot, without needing to fill the weave after it sets up. With peel ply you are able to squeege the cloth down firmly against the substrate (no floating cloth), making the assembly stronger, more fair, uses less resin, and minimizes sanding. I use formica scraps for squeegees, one to hold the wet assembly in place with the left hand while squeegeeing away from it with the right. The combination of cutting the cloth on the bias and using peel ply make glassing corners easy.
Something of a milestone on my Philsboat build. This is temporary form 8 (8 ft from the bow). Gives some sense of the size of the boat.
I had a pretty accomplishing weekend. I actually have a built bulkhead! Ok, it’s a temporary bulkhead, but still, I call it a milestone. All the real bulkheads have all the reinforcing edge lumber blocks cutout, with bevels put on them. I still have to cut the transom motor mount. I still have to build up the temp bulkhead 10.6, and the temp bulkhead 3.7. BH 10.6 will be a stick built affair, like BH8, and BH 3.7 will be out of scrap plywood, with no edge blocks. Beveling the pieces for the transom was a trip. But, it all lined up on the plywood transom, so life is good. I marked BH2, and the transom with exactly where the block lumber will go when I get around to final gluing.
Here some photos from the launch of the ECO 55 from New Zealand. The quality of the build shows in the photos. He has to step the mast and he hopes to go for his first sail in this month.
19 foot lapstrake/stitch-and-glue hybrid whaler. For sail and oar, built in 6mm plywood. Inspired by american whaling boats which abound near the Island of Santa Catarina, where I live, a former whaling region in the past, due to its Azorean community.
Fairing and Painting
Went on with fairing the cockpit sides after that I rolled on some high build primer. Normally, I spray it but didn’t feel like setting up and covering everything for such a small job. Worked out okay, sides are looking as good as done but as expected corners need some more work filling and sanding.
Skin on Frame Kit
Following up on the post about the frame for my Skin on Frame kit.
The 16′ Skin on Frame kit prototype is now skinned. Keeping with the theme if keeping it fast and simple to assemble I recommend stabling on the skin. No reason it can’t be sewn but stapling it on in two parts has a few advantages, especially for first time builders. With this system there is no need for hot cutters, no runs and it only takes a couple hours instead of a couple days. Details are on the photo comments.
For the kit I’ll provide simple nylon strapping with a couple bungie’s for the deck straps. They are functional and simple to install but can be easily upgraded to to whatever the builder prefers like leather with bone toggles or my current favourite, spectra rope.
I’ve cut grooves into the gunnels for the staples and skin edges to sit in and eliminate the bumps they make under the tape. For the time being I’m using Gorilla Tape to cover the seams but am looking for a better solution to provide in the kits. Ez Keel strips would be ideal but too expensive for the 33 feet it would require. I welcome suggestions
The kayak paddles beautifully, tracks very well and is quick to maneuver with a bit of leaning and paddle tricks. This version is 33.5 with foot braces, seat and back band installed. It definitely doesn’t feel heavy in the water but I’ll still try to shave off a couple pounds if I can.