Mr. Cupp,

I read your review of miter saws on your website some time ago and had a question if you have time to answer it. I ended up purchasing a Craftsman saw from Sears with a standard blade. As I'll be cutting mostly casing, small crown moldings, etc., I purchased a Freud blade from Home Depot for doing fine cuts. Unfortunately, I later read in the instructions that I shouldn't use a fine kerf blade like the Freud blade. I called there tech support and they confirmed this. If I'm only cutting small pieces of wood and want fine cuts, in your opinion, would it be safe to use the blade only for these small pieces? If you have the time to answer, I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks in advance.

Ian Craig

Ian: John Cupp wrote for this magazine between 2003 and 2006. I have not heard from him since. Maybe someone else will answer your question

I just heard that Jim Thayer passed on very recently, sorry to hear it, thats a big loss not only to friends but to the small boat cruising cause as well.

Yours
John Welsford

Chuck, hi -

David: I called Sea-Dog and they recommended silicone spray. They said grease would work but would also attract sand and that would not be good - Chuck

Dear Captain Chuck

I am a high school in Seoul, Korea. My high school, Hyundai Senior High School, is established by Hyundai Motors Company, as you can find out at its name. There is fairly famous engineering team in our school, called FETS - From Earth to Sky, and I'm a leader of the team. We are directed by our teacher, Mr.Koo, who teaches subject of technics, and our team's history has been about twenty years.

This summer, we got plan of Stella 73 from Christer Bystrom, and made our own sailboat referring his plan. Since we didn't have Queen Mab plan at that time, we, kind of, mixed two of those only with Queen Mab's image we could get from the internet. (We did this because we really wanted sided center board in order to make enough space for legs.)

Thus, we finished our own boat, and named her H24 which stands for the number of our team's member. I really want to tell our making story through your great magazine site : Duckworks.

If you have any interest, tell me with this email. I will be waiting for your response.

Thank you.

Yours Sincerely,
J. Steve Park

We can't wait to read your story, Steve! - Chuck

Chuck:

By the way, I just bought a book from Amazon off one of the side ads on the website.  Do you gain anything by this?
Paul Austin

Paul: Yes, we do get a small commission, thanks - Chuck

Chuck,

Here is a possible news item for you. We have pretty much completed the Lissa. We took the boat to Cedar Key in May and have been using the boat on Crescent Lake in FL. This (link below) gives some of the details and a few pictures. Please feel free to edit to fit your format. You might like some of the pictures for the plan section. Joe's detailed plans have been very interesting to work from. He had lots of really practical ideas that really showed his depth of knowledge and experience. After knowing Joe as long as I did, I can almost hear him at times.

There are a few pictures of the 15'6" pulling boat I completed in June 2010 HERE

The boat lines were based on 1985 Lissa plans by Joe Dobler from Duckwoks but with many simplifications and materials of the Otter 16 plans by Jacques Mertans. I added some of my own features drawn from my experience building a 7'3" version of the Dobler Pepita. The first launch was the rowing version. Later, we motored with a 2HP OB. A gunter sailing rig was completed in time to attend the Cedar Key small boat get together in May. I am still working out some of the details and improvements.

Justin Pipkorn

Hi Chuck,

I really enjoyed Rick Campbell's two articles (part1, part2) on his "Wee Rose" conversion of his old Bolger Nymph. He is another friend I'd like to meet someday.

Thanks again for all you do to help bring this gang of rogues, misfits and free thinkers together into a community.
--
Paul
Part-time ne'er-do-well, emeritus

Hi Chuck,

I'd guess you've heard by now, that we lost Jim last Friday, 10/14.

The report I got from Sharon was that he went to work at the Peach Patch, and was late getting back for lunch. Janice couldn't reach him on his cell, so she drove out there, and found him in his truck, still alive, but fading. He died in his truck – kind of appropriate for such and old road warrior.

I don't know the cause of death, but he was so oxygen dependant that any interruption in his supply would have put him in a crisis. It was amazing that he was as active as he was, and still willing to run about in the wilds.

As luck would have it, I was camping in central Utah with my daughter just a few days before that, and convinced Jim and Janice to drive over an have dinner with us wednesday night, 10/12. We sat around the camp fire, drinking wine and enjoying the full moon rising, some of Jim's favorite things. He seemed about the same as always, maybe a bit subdued that evening. I thought he was just on good behavior because the Boss was there.

Anyway, here's a couple of photos of our friend.

Steve Axon

May he breath easier from now on.

He'll be greatly missed.

Tom

So long,Jim. May we all gather together on a warm windy day to remember you, Kokopelli willing. Wild calms, Naughty pine, sour luffs, expensive water and cheap port.
Travel well,
Niles

I feel so fortunate to have known Jim and at the same time so unprepared to see him go. Jim was incredibly thoughtful and always surprised me with videos, letters and kind comments. I feel like I am seriously in debt to him.

My best to his family and loved ones.

I take some comfort in knowing that he will continue to be our advocate with Kokopelli and I expect to always see him out of the corner of my eye, watching the water and freshening the breeze.

Happy sailing, Jim,

Kellan

This is hard news to hear. I feel privileged to have known Jim even for so brief a time. His good humor, generosity, intellect and friendship will indeed be sorely missed around camp and in the forum.

Deepest sympathies and best wishes to Jim's family and friends.

Thanks for the memories Jim.

Mike Jackson

Dear Jim,
I didn't know you as long as most of the others, but thank you for making me feel welcome. Thank you for a slice of melon in the morning, for the fried toast with home-made preserves, for the watermelon in the afternoon, and for a glass of wine in the evening. I enjoyed sitting in the water and shooting the breeze with you at Lake Powell. Thanks for the videos and photos that you put together for us. There's much more, but we'll talk about that later..........
Jon Larson

Jim Thayer, a former science teacher and boat builder was a frequient contributor to MAIB magazine and the organizer of the annual Kokopeli cruise as well as other gatherings.

Here I am being the bearer of sad news again. Another great wooden boat builder has gone on to the big boat shop in the sky. Dale Andrews died last weekend after a long fight with the big C. Dale's favorite designs to build were striped, bright finished canoes, kayaks and melonseeds. In this picture he looks like a serious builder, not to be trifled with. He was a good friend of another great builder, Mac McCarthy. They built boats together for a dozen years and I'm sure intimidated the hell out of hundreds of guys who came in to build one of the "Featherlite" canoes. I'd hate to have been a rookie builder with these two perfectionists around. Rookie hell, I stopped in once to ask for a little advice and he told me to take up stamp collecting. 

David Lucas
Lucas Boatworks and Happy Hour Club
(941) 704-6736

Just a quick email to advise of the excellent turnout promised so far for this year.

We have over 52 boats definitely coming on Saturday for displaying, with some trade exhibitors also showing interest.

I have another 12 or so that are maybes, and am working on those.

Fridays social day is around 25 people so far, and is a good way to meet and greet other boaties.

It is getting bigger and better each year, and with your continued support it hopefully will become one of the 'must see' festivals on the calendar.

We no longer see ourselves as a small affair subject to the vagaries of Mother Nature, and the show will go on, regardless of weather.

We again have some great lucky door (gate?) prizes for exhibitors which will be an excellent memento of the day.

Once again, thank you for your continued support, it is very much appreciated.

I look forward to catching up.

Kind Regards

Gregg Spies

Organizer: Jacaranda Festival of Wooden Boats, Grafton, NSW, Australia

Dear Chuck,

Iam Kena and writing from Germany. Iam  watching duckworksmagazine for a couple of years now and  find it really nice and informative.

I always look at the model column of Mark Steele and perhaps this could be a good weblink for him.

When I was looking for a forum to discuss a boat problem I registered at www.boote-forum.de and suddenly a hidden model-boat chapter in the forum emerged from nowhere.

What shall I say, I have found a small hidden society, very active and interesting. There are at least three designers doing beautyful scale projects beside some other people, who are building from plans (Riva and Catamaran). "Ready to fly" building sets are the exeption there

I have found the re-design and construction of an "Aero II", a radical Z-Jolle (Z-Dinghy) from the 1930's. One guy is doing sharpie design and devellopment with modern sharpie hulls, but with a classic appearence (Küstensharpie-Thread) as well as one lover of skandinavian "Schärenkreuzer" (skerry-cruiser?) who has designed and built at least three of this lovely looking boats.

Perhaps you or Mark want to take a look. But remember ... its a hidden society, so you have to register if you want to find them at the bottom of the forums topic list. By the way, the german word for modeling is " Modellbau".

Best regards, Kena

Hi Chuck,

I was hoping you could put up a link on web watch to my new etsy store where I am selling paracord survival bracelets?  If someone puts in "duckworksmagazine" into the comment section when they make a purchase I will reimburse them the shipping when they receive the package.  I also make custom orders and if anyone was having a messabout and wanted a lot of them as a give away or to sell or whatever I will be happy to help.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/thatmoffitt?ref=si_shop

thanks

Paul Moffitt

Some comments on John Welsford's article "Anchoring Out"

Neither of the anchors had their shackles secure, first problem.

Second problem was the rope, it floats!

Third problem, no proper eyes in the rope.

Fourth problem, the anchors were too small! Not by much, and of course the boat was well within the makers recommended length range for that size anchor, Hah!

and finally:

Its evident, and known by experienced cruisers, that an anchor of less than about 15 lbs does not have enough weight to push the point of the anchor into a bottom that is other than soft sand or mud. We need to remember that.

my comments come from a semninar about anchoring form this past spring and pertain to my much larger motorsailer, 37' and 26000#.

1) Bow shackles were the weakest part of my rode. 3/8 BBB 2650 working load, 3/8 shackle 2000. better choice, double clevis (mid link in the WM catalog) or quick link 6600 and 4200 respectively

2) John addressed this properly at the end of the article, but why not a kellet, and, instead of two anchor and rodes, why not both anchors in series, one as a kellet.

3 Eye is another point to introduce the bow shackle. Better is a rope to chain splice. Even a 3/8 nylon three strand is 4400, the reduction of strength of the slice is still stronger than any bow shackle likely to be used. I understand poly is not real dependable for holding knots, and by extension splices, this whole idea has me concerned.

4) Lots of discussion on all forums about anchor sizing. He does mention an anchor does have to be large enough to dig in, but what about... oh never mind, it's all been said before.

I just helped dismantle a lovely little 50 year old wooden schooner that ended on the rocks in SF Bay three weeks ago. Marginal anchor, three, count'em three shackle between the anchor and chain for no reason I could understand, but there was a rope to chain back splice. This was an emergency hook, not deployed when the emergency occurred. Even if it had been deployed, there may not have been enough scope available to keep it off the rocks. Why so little? Weight. While not a racer, she had such a fine bow that going forward to tend the jib would drop the bow down. Since there was no accommodation below to speak of, why not have a more serious anchor midships, in a bucket and ready to go?

But we mostly do anchoring when it is calm a peaceful, so the weak links rarely have a chance to be exposed, and certainly such emergencies that took the schooner away from us are rare, so we tend to not think too much about all that an anchor can do for us.

I do enjoy your ezine, very informative, especially fond of arts such as rope work.

Mike

Chuck,

Regrettably, we are cancelling the Lake Conroe Fall Messabout. The lake is too low to use the facilities.

Tim

Saw the message in the Sept Duckworks Letters where Bill Bixby asked about a sailboat game I posted to Duckworks years ago.  Since then, I have listed every sailboat game that I have heard of at PDRacer.com since puddle ducks do a lot of fun and goofy racing.   The direct link is:
https://www.pdracer.com/sailboat-games/

If anyone else has any sailboat games they know about that aren't already listed there, I'd love to hear about them so I can list them too.

Thanks,
Shorty

Dear Chuck

You already may be planning your December issue and looking for interesting items to add to a "Holiday Gift Guide" feature for boaters.

If so, please consider including a membership from Sea Tow. It's inexpensive, easy to give and quite literally can be a life saver.

For more information, see:

https://www.seatow.com/membership/

Sincerely,

Louisa Beckett, Turnkey Communications & Public Relations, Inc.

You can buy Duckworks Gift Cards HERE - Chuck

(in case anyone is puzzled by the above, for a few weeks, Sharpie Pens were buying a lot of advertising space here at Duckworks through Google AdWords. Likely they had requested their ads be seen on any site that used the word "Sharpie" more than once or twice - Chuck)

Hey Chuck --
I want to say a BIG CONGRATULATIONS to the members of the puddle duck class; we just passed 600 registered hulls!!!  Our community has been growing at an ever increasing rate, largely thanks to the effort of duckers getting out there and promoting our class in various ways. I also want to say a special thanks to you Chuck Leinweber #8 "ACME" for your continued support and help promoting our class by featuring us at Duckworksmagazine.com. Also want to say thank you to your team, including Mike John (also a puddle ducker) who tirelessly continues to maintain and update the duckworks website, which we all visit & enjoy daily.

Cheap, creative, and having fun on the water.
Shorty

https://www.pdracer.com/news/news05/

The "St. Andrew's Summer Experience 2011" is over and done. I ended up with 11 kids signed up--nearly all elementary students in grades 3-5. Attendance averaged 8. I looked at all the suggested designs and ended up with a crude 13.5ft straight-cuts sort-of canoe meant to hold one or two kids, or one kid and an adult. They worked okay. In keeping with the idea that the kids do as much of the work as possible, I used no epoxy--a new experience for me. The program was draining but also very satisfying, and left everyone from kids to parents to church members extremely pleased. I just capped the blog I kept during the program with "Lessons Learned": here is the link if anyone is interested.
Jeff Michals-Brown

https://standrewssummer.blogspot.com/

Unofficially the guinness book of world records was broken for the largest rafting of canoes and kayaks this past weekend up in the Adirondacks. There was almost 2 thousand boats and I was there with my mom to help out.

This was held in Inlet, NY on 4th Lake, on the Fulton Chain of Lakes, Saturday 24 Sept 2011.

Here is a cool picture shot from a seaplane

I also uploaded a video of us on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7Kf-w9TV3c

We waited until almost everyone had gotten into place then came in on the outer most loop on the windward side to keep our carbon/kevlar boats from getting crunched and to get a quick get a way when it was done. 

It was quite the culture shock being among sooooo many people and boats as just days before I had just come back from my 5 day wilderness solo canoe trip where I ran into more moose than people. 

SPIDennis

Chuck:

I am a boy scout leader in New Jersey, and have been searching for a friction hitch that surpasses the holding ability of the (boy scout standard) taut-line hitch, the (disappointing) icicle hitch, and the (far better) adjustable grip hitch. Having learned Mr. Messer's death-grip/gripper hitch, I am truly blown away by it's absolutely stunning grip BUT... for the life of me -- having spent a good many hours fiddling with it -- I cannot seem to figure out how to use it to supplant the aforementioned friction hitches (i.e. how do I tie it back to itself using a single line?).

I am wondering if this is in fact practicable and, if so, if you could kindly point me in the right direction as to how one might tie it thus. In my opinion, the gripper hitch is THE ne plus ultra of friction hitches, and would be as versatile as it is truly amazing if one could also tie it for applications as the taut-line hitch.

Any guidance that you or mister Messer could kindly provide would be sincerely appreciated.

Thanks very, very much for your time and consideration.

Best Regards!

Bill Tieleman
Assistant Scoutmaster
Maywood New Jersey B.S.A. Troop 1200

(letter forwarded to Warren Messer)

Hi Chuck,

This is directed to Stevensen and Turner:

Do you know the exact location of the loss of the Equator on Anacapa Island?

Years ago I found a pile of ballast stones on Anacapa and was wondering if it came from the Equator?
The exact location is no where near any sailing ship that sunk off the channel Islands have been dentified. I have searched for a ship that sunk in that vicinity to no avail. I am not a crazy kook but at the time was a commercial abalone diver and know the islands very well. I am now a licensed CG Master 100 ton.

Yours Truly
Rich Pomeroy

Chuck:

The Michael Storer article on rules of thumb was one of the best posts I've ever read on Duckworks. I hope readers skip over my thing on Herreshoff and read his first. I downloaded his, I will read it more than once. I hope he someday expands it into a short book on designing 10-12 footers.

By the way, there is an early Francis H. design, 60 foot ketch he called Landfall. Uffa Fox did a mathmatical study of its weight, dimensions, ballast, etc strictly by the graph of a perfect ship. Landfall landed exactly on Fox's design 'rules of thumb' lines every time. Francis was not a mathmatician but he had an unerring eye for what he liked.

Anyway, please convey to Mr. Storer how much I appreciated what he wrote.

Paul Austin

Long ago I found the 'Pirate Race' game rules on your website. Now I may be getting involved with a group of Hobie Mirage Island owners and an expanded inventory of sailing or boating games may be fun.

Are there other games described in Duckworks Magazine? If so, what are they, or how can I find them (simple searches yield too many unrelated answers to be useful).

Thanks,

Bill Bixby

Dear sailors,

Following on from Dylan Winter's astonishing success as a marine engineer we have decided to offer KTL branded tool kits at the knock down price of $500 a pop.

As you can see the, kits come in a prestige carrying case. Each tool element has been carefully chosen with regard to its quality, longevity and general all round usefulness. The adjustable spanners are made of Chrome Vanadium Putty. The spanners come from Rolson, QD and the 99p shop.

Satisfied users of the toolkits say that they have met many interesting people with the help of the kits - just to be seen carrying one around will attract friends and admirers. One KTL sailor says that since he has owned one of the kits he has been much more successful with girls.

Full details HERE.

In honour of our chief executive we have named this prestige item "the bodger"

yours sincerely

Genoa Windjammer - head of KTL merchandising

Sandra,

Here's my Mayfly 16 out on the water. Will have better pictures when I go back up north to Duluth in a week or so.

Thanks for making it possible.

Best wishes hope to see you at sail OK.

Kenneth Giles

Hi Chuck,

I represent Emmy-award winning host, television personality and entertainer, Charlie Moore, "The Mad Fisherman," one of the most recognizable outdoorsman in the U.S. and in Canada. As host of the NBC Sports/Versus show, "Charlie Moore: No Offense," Moore travels the country introducing viewers and celebrity guests to top outdoor fishing spots.

Moore is more than just a great fisherman; he is an entertainer, a comedian and for the past 15 years helped revolutionize outdoor sporting shows. The loud and outspoken Boston native has mastered the skill of boating and fishing and wrapped it all into an entertaining sporting show package that everyone can enjoy.

I would love to explore the possibility with you of interviewing Charlie Moore for a feature story about his favorite fishing spots across the U.S., favorite boats, or the celebrities he has taught a thing or two about fishing (including Lynyard Skynyard and more). Please feel free to reach me at 310.432.0020 x 143 or at jwilson@efgpr.com. For more info on Charlie Moore, please visit: www.charliemoore.com.

Thank you in advance for your consideration – I would love to hear your thoughts!

All the best,

jennifer wilson
EFG:: Entertainment Fusion Group
8899 beverly blvd.
west hollywood, ca 90048
o: 310.432.0020 x143
c: 619.400.9515
jwilson@efgpr.com

Here are my thoughts: When Charlie builds a boat, we will talk - chuck

David B. Kagan

Hi Chuck - 

The Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding has announced the 2012 Sailmaking and Rigging Class.

The class will run from January 9th, 2012, through March 23rd, 2012 at the School in the harbor town of Port Hadlock WA, in western Washington state on the Olympic Peninsula. The School itself is about 10 miles south of Port Townsend.

Additional information is available on our website at www.nwboatschool.org

Sincerely,

Pete Leenhouts
Special Projects, The Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding
42 N Water Street, Port Hadlock WA 98339
360-385-4948 www.nwboatschool.org (See us on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/NWBoatSchool)

2012 - our 31st year teaching and preserving the skills and crafts associated with fine wooden boatbuilding and other traditional maritime arts with emphasis on the development of the individual as a craftsperson.

Hi Chuck,

Well, I don't know about you, but I am real tired of the heat we have been having this summer. Record breaking, actually. It has really slowed me down, and actually differed some projects until fall. I did, however, complete a new build of a one sheet design that I think you will like. My goal was to build a portable that included the following: Very Low Cost to Build, Stable, Easy to Row or Paddle, Looked like a Boat, and would accept a Trolling Motor. The end result is the "1SHEET+", an 87" long by 30 inch wide, two module boat with good looks, 250 pound capacity, yet weighs only 35 pounds. Initial water trials, cut short by the heat, showed that it was stable, yet nimble, and displayed very little wake. When nested, the boat will fit in just about any vehicle, with transport dimensions of 48"L x 31"W x 14"H. I have included photos from the build and the maiden voyage, and a link to a YouTube video as well.

Best regards,
Ken

Chuck:

As my very last task in building my trimaran dinghy just before painting, I had an epoxy disaster.  I used a double gunwhale system to level the fore and aft decks and needed to fill a groove between the decks and the outer gunwhale with epoxy.  I also needed to seal the decks and gunwhales with epoxy.  I filled the groove, sealed the decks, and all looked good.  Alas, this very last building task went awry.  The epoxy never fully cured.  It gelled and became an incredibly tacky, sticky gooey mess.  I waited more days to see if the cure would complete.  It did not.  What to do now?  I needed to get the mess out of the groove between deck and gunwhales and I needed to clean the mess off the decks.

After some initial attempts that were fruitless, here is a clean up recipe that worked really well.  Whereas initial attempts achieved no meaningful progress, this recipe allowed me to get things very clean in a handful of hours. Keep in mind the uncured epoxy had a consistency (viscosity) like thick taffy, but was extremely tacky.  I was worried how the clean up might impact painting, but all turned out okay.

I used this equpiment:  chisel, wood mallet to assist with the chisel work, 3 inch scraper for deck cleaning (possibly not needed, see comments below),respirator as the uncured stuff stunk, eye protection, gloves, box of Scott paper rags (300 per box; I used maybe half to 2/3 of these,  These rags were essential!  A box is not that expensive, but these are much tougher than paper towels.  These paper rags held up to the soaking and rubbing action needed to clean up whereas ordinary paper towels did not.); one gallon white vinegar (food grade as I bought at grocery ); nail polish remover (quart of acetone donated by wife); plastic cup to hold vinegar for rag dipping.  Note:  No heat gun was used in this recipe, particularly with the acetone around.  Heat didn't help in earlier attempts, as the stuff was already taffy like.

Procedures:

Decks:  I used the scraper, pulling backwards rather than pusching to avoid gouging deck in order to gather goop into clumps to lift off and dispose.  Pushing the scraper made gouges.  I didn't try to get surface scraped totally clean, but merely tried to get off the bulk.  After removing the bulk, a lot was still left.  Then, I used paper rags soaked in white vinegar to wipe the deck repeatedly.  The first few cycles of wiping loaded the rags up with gunk.  I switched out soaked rags as they got gunked up.  Eventually, the surface appeared pretty clean.  I was very surprised that the rags worked so well. Note:  The vinegar soaked rags were much more effective than the scraper on the deck.  Perhaps the scraping step could be omitted.  This was a lot of elbow work, but the soaked rags worked pretty well.

I moved on to working on the groove between decks and the gunwhales.  Here, I used the mallet (light taps) and chisel to dig out most of goop from the groove.  Based on success of the vinegar on decks, I removed as much as I reasonably could with the chisel, but I didn't try to remove every last blob.  

Once most of the goop was out with the chisel, I cleaned up the tools with vinegar and then acetone and set them aside. The tools get gummed up pretty good during this work, but wiping the tools down with vinegar soaked rags followed by wiping with acetone cleans them up very nicely.  So, no tool sacrifices. 

I switched to wiping out the cleaned area with vinegar soaked rags.  I worked in 2 foot sections until the area was clean.  I probably used 10-15 rags per 2 foot section.

The gunwhales were easiest.  I used vinegar soaked rags to clean up the gunwhales.

Things looked clean now, but in areas where the vinegar had dried, surfaces were still a little tacky.  I went back over everything wiping with 3 rounds of vinegar soaked rags.  I used the rags and acetone to wipe down all the surfaces 3 more times.

The surfaces were now clean and tack free.  I had to sand and fair again prior to painting as well as fill the groove and seal the decks again with properly mixed epoxy.  Was I nervous putting down more epoxy?  You bet, but careful mixing avoided a repeat of the disaster. 

Note: The properly cured epoxy already on the boat seemed to be completely unaffected by the vinegar and acetone wiping.  I didn't leave any puddles of either vinegar or acetone lying around on the boat, though. 

David Kagan

To keep things in perspective – the spirited conversations we have on Duckworks seem to involve imaginary levels of pure boat building, plywood or `real wood', screws left in or not, epoxy or wood glues, scarfing with a plane or with a powered tool – you get the picture.

The irony - There are so few of us that actually build boats in the world that the rest of the millions that don't are in awe of what we accomplished no matter how we did it. They are in awe that we built a boat at all! When my wife bakes a cake from scratch she has admirers that are in awe that she could do that even if she knows she may have cheated a little (she did not go out in the field and grind her own flour).

Another irony - LOL – don't take it seriously = The hand plane is a tool that was devised to plane off wood faster than what came before it – a real purist might use a sharp flint… Someone came up with the plane (and you purchased one from someone else – did you make your own plane?) A plane might be considered a jig that holds a flat piece of metal whereas before one was using a sharp flint held by hand.

So, Someone here needs to go and gather the materials to make steel - then make a steel blade with a very sharp edge - may need to make your own grinding wheel, then mount the blade in a jig made from the earth that holds this blade at an angle and use it to shave off pieces of wood from a tree that they cut down themselves to make a boat! Now there's the real winner! LOL

There also seems to be quite a competition for who can build a boat using what's on hand. Making a miracle happen with the least amount of materials, the least amount of funds expended, and the least amount of effort – Man,that takes ingenuity, creativity, and fortitude that I really admire but that's not for everyone nor can just anyone do that. Those that can have a certain skill that millions do not – God Bless you!

For us boat builders its all about learning the different methods and the satisfaction we get out of doing it OUR way. THERE IS NO RIGHT WAY – once the boat is built and on the water it's a thing of beauty hand built in the various ways of the art.

I for one am more than happy to leave SS screws in my builds, scarf ply with a jig for one boat and then learn how to scarf with a hand planar for the next one. IT'S a hobby - a big game for goodness sake to me – my buddy spend his spare time running and running and running of which I see no earthly use so, there's no reason to do these things in this day and age other than for the love of it – for others it may provide an income (such as bartering a home built jig/plane one came up with to another for green pieces of useless paper). To enter level of competitions about the purity of ones methods echoes of the racing rules and regulations of the racing purist – his game his love…

I love the banter and all the advice given out on this site – I DON'T take the banter seriously but I do take the advice to heart. I will then go off and build as I will MY boat in MY way and you can do the same for your boat.

I'm off to the NY to see the folks – so will be out of commission for the week - have a happy boat building July 4th here in the states!

all in good fun.

Dean

Even tho' I have a Tender Behind and a mostly built Houdini, I'm feeling left out of these messabouts so decided I need to whip up a KIWI to throw on the back of the pickup and get to Sail Oklahoma and meet John and yourself (I presume you will make it too?).

George

John Welsford, Jim Michalak, myself and lots of other interesting people will be at Sail Oklahoma in October - Chuck

Hello Chuck - You were inquiring about a red and black Welsford Whaler on your site, there is/was a picture showing the stern. Attached pictures of the boat along with another boat of mine, note the Whaler is now repainted and more sorted. Regards, Ian

Serefe!
Utku

The article on the yuloh to push a large boat caught my eye.  I have always been interested in the concept, but my rather haphazard efforts have been inconclusive.   Most of us are familiar with the way a regular oar is used to propel a Bahama dinghy.  The same technique is widely used in France. 
 
While riding in the French whaleboat at Brest I was interested to see the boat propelled by the steersman with a large, but regularly shaped oar.  This oar was fitted with a handle projecting at 90 degrees from the shaft near the grip.  In use he moved the oar back and forth in a horizontal plane, rotating it about 90 degrees at the end of each stroke.
 
The boat, with 9 or 10 aboard, doubtless displaced well over a ton.  The steersman really put his back into it, but maintained good speed through a narrow bridge and other places where the rowers could not operate. 

We can all see clearly how a fishtail works, and swim flippers, and the Hobie drive. We have all sculled with the rudder. One concludes that a yuloh with a hinged flap on the end would be a big improvement, and no problem mechanically.    What am I missing??

Fair Winds, Clear Wood, Sweet Sheer, cheap Booze, Good Wine, and All The Best Jim Thayer

Chuck:

In case you think other readers might be interested, here is some information for your August letters comparing Interlux Brightsides (IB) to the new Rustoleum Marine Paint (RMP):

FYI:  I used IB on the hulls and decks of my trimaran sailing dinghy.  Then, I used the new Rustoleum marine paint on my rudder assembly parts (tiller, headstock, blade) and inside the footwell.   I would have used IB in the footwell.  But I ran out of IB and didn't want to buy another whole quart just to do a little footwell.  So, RMP in the footwell it was.

Important:  Because I used these paints on a trimaran dinghy that will not live in the water,  I didn't use a bottom paint. For a boat that lives in the water, a good bottom paint will need to be used below the waterline.

Here's my thoughts comparing the two paint systems:

Primers:  Both systems use high build primers.  The IB primer builds more and sands to a much smoother surface. I was actually amazed at how smooth the surface sanded back.  And you can visually see your sanding progress.  Unsanded, the grey primer I used had a light gloss.  Sanding back, the grey took on a lighter grey, matte finish.  It was easy to see areas that needed more sanding  . . . or more filler.  The Rustoleum primer was also very good, but not quite as amazing.  I would have used grey for the RMP primer, but the store only had white.  I like grey primer, because it's easier for me to see surface problems and sanding progress.  It's also more clear when your top coat system has built up enough hiding power.  If you can hide the grey, you know you've got enough paint on at a minimum.  Some people have said you can skip the primer and still get the topcoat to adhere just fine.   Maybe that's true.  But I think using the high build primer is a key step to getting a smooth painted surface.  Big difference if the primer is not used.  I tried not using primer on my second outrigger, because the IB top coat provided such a great finish on the first outrigger.  But on the second outrigger, the texture of the plywood hull up by the gunwhales where I didn't fiberglass and didn't prime telegraphed right through.  So, I sanded back and re-painted with the primer.   WIth primer and top coat, the plywood texture was invisible.  Indeed, the hull side looks like it comes off a mold.  I saw similar texture hiding capabilities with the RMP primer, but not to the same degree.  The IB system looks sprayed/smooth from inches away.  The RMP system looks smooth from 2-4 feet away. Of course, good surface prep, including removal of particles with a tack cloth or the like after sanding, is a key to getting very good results with either system. 

Self leveling top coats:  The IB top coat self levels to a point where brush strokes are not visible at all.  With good surface prep including primer, the surface looks like it came out of a mold.  For RMP, the top coat self levels very nicely but not to the same degree as IB.  Up close, you can still see brush marks (or foam marks) in an RMP top coat.  From 2-4 feet away (more often closer to 4 feet) these are not visible to my less-than-eagle eyes.

Coverage:  The RMP top coat covers better.  Two coats over the primer gives solid coverage.  IB top coat takes 3 coats.  Sometimes 4 coats.  Both primers gave excellent coverage in a single coat.  Because the primer gets sanded back, I was only somewhat careful to roll/brush on primer (or roll and tip) smoothly, mainly to avoid runs.  I also made sure I tipped out any thing rolled on.  No need to be a fanatic with the primer.  Reasonably smooth is okay.  Hence, priming went fast (20 minutes per hull below the gunwhales . . . actually above the gunwhales since each hull was upside down).  I was a lot more careful when applying the top coat.  Hence, top coating took more time (hour per hull, below the gunwhales).

Gloss:  Both are quite glossy, much glossier than a gloss exterior paint such as a deck enamel.  But, IB has a lot more gloss.  I'd say RMP clearly has a wow factor.  But, the top coat of IB is spectacular.  Standing in front of my main hull covered with IB, I can read the letters and see the colors and graphics in my reflected T-shirt.  For RMP, I can see a shadow reflection with the general shape of my head and shirt, but no detail.  Stand in front of your typical glossy house paint and you probably won't see any reflection period.

Durability:  I can't comment yet.  IB seems harder but I need to let the RMP dry a few more weeks to see how it hardens up.  My IB paint on the hulls has been cured for a handful of weeks now.

Primer Cost:  Roughly $22 for RMP primer compared to about $38 for the IB primer (prices per quart).  There are cheaper prices online, but pay shipping and handling and you end up almost in the same place.  Both primers are expensive, but RMP primer costs a lot less.

Topcoat cost:  Roughly $12 for RMP compared to about $38 for IB (prices per quart).  Compared to IB, the RMP topcoat is a huge bargain.  Online prices for the IB top coat suffer the same foibles as the online primer prices (The RMP top coat is so inexpensive at local building supply stores like Lowes or Fleet Farm, why bother with online issues for RMP?).  For example, one online distributor sells IB top coat for $27 per quart.  Seems like a great price compared to $38.  But, shipping is $5 per quart, and then there's a hazardous material handling charge.  Ba da bing, you're up to $37.  So, I just paid $38 from my nearby West Marine store and didn't have to wait a week for shipping.

Touch up:  Both touch up easily.  I was concerned with this for both paint systems.  I got an early chance to investigate, unfortunately.  Stupid is as stupid does, I banged an 8 foot metal angle iron into the side of one of my outriggers (painted with IB and primer system) near the bow, pivoted to see what I did and banged the iron near the stern.  Two dings.  Ouch.   I sanded the banged areas with 220 grit, brushed on a top coat (no primer) and tipped out with a foam brush while blending a little into adjacent areas.  After two coats of this, the touch ups dried as smooth as the rest of the hull and could not be discerned even at an oblique angle  To test the RMP, I lightly sanded out a couple of spots on my rudder blade (coated with RMP) and touched up with top coat.   Took only one coat, not two, to fix the RMP so long as I didn't sand through the primer.  Two coats if I did.  The new areas blended very well, but could be discerned at an oblique angle.  Only a fish would have that angle in use, so I'm not too concerned.

Colors:  RMP currently has a limited standard palette, while IB has many more standard colors available.  If Rustoleum gains momentum in the market, maybe the company will offer more standard colors.  That would be a huge plus, making the system much more appealing in more circumstances.

Mixing:  Mixing before use is important!  Both primers come with solids well separated from the liquid.  This doesn't mean the primer has to go back, though.  I think this can be expected for high build primers.  In fact, when I saw this was an issue when I first opened the RMP primer can, I knew it would have good build properties.  In any case, thorough mixing fixes this phase separation.  Initially, it took about 5-8 minutes of steady mixing for both primer brands to become smooth, creamy dispersions.  Patience is needed to mix well, but the mixed primers peform well.  If the primers don't become smooth and creamy with this mixing, then the paint might be old and I'd suggest taking yours back.  After the initial mixing, the primers stayed pretty well dispersed during my painting phase.  Phase separation in the can is not an issue for the top coat paints. The top coats of both brands mixed quickly and easily.

Drying:  I had no issues at all with either system.  Both dried on schedule.  In my case, I mixed the paints and primers well.  I also used MAS epoxies and had no amine blush issues (in case blush or mixing might be drying culprits).  My surfaces being painted were very clean.  Some folks online say the IB primer didn't dry for them.  Maybe they didn't mix or maybe they tried to coat over amine blush.

Ease of use:  I have to admit, I was a bit nervous using the IB system  for the first time.  I had never used an expensive marine paint system like this before.  I worried that some kind of magic might be needed to access the advertised results.  But, there's no need for nerves or worry.  I found the IB system as easy to use as any paint system, and the results are pretty spectacular.  Apply with a foam roller and tip out with a foam brush and the paint works great.  It's jaw dropping, really as to how the top coat self levels a few minutes after application.  Having such a good experience with IB, I used the RMP without hesitation or nerves.  Same ease of use.  Note:  the cost of consummables, such as rollers and brushes, can really add up.  By storing my rollers and brushes in clean ziploc bags, I was able to re-use the consummables even after leaving up to 24 hours between coats.  I never had to clean a roller or foam brush and just threw them out when done with the whole job. 

Conclusions:  Clearly, if cost is an issue, RMP wins hands down.  But for a spectacular finish, IB wins hands down.  So, I would recommend using both if the budget allows.  Where a spectacular finish matters (such as hulls, decks, and a highly visible cockpit), I'd use IB.  On the rudder blade and daggerboard/centerboard, I might also use IB because it has Teflon ingredients that theoretically might provide a smoother, more slippery surface.  For other areas, I would use RMP (interiors, lockers, etc.) based on its cost and quite good finish.  After I get some experience with the durability of both paint systems, I might revise these conclusions.  If I had a bigger more significant boat, I'd be tempted to try the Interlux Perfection system, which is a two part paint that is said to have a lot more durability than IB.  I have no current experience with the Perfection system to offer any comment.  Qualification:  If I were not taking the time to do very good surface prep, then I would not use IB.  I think thorough surface prep is key to getting the spectacular coating results.  In such a circumstance, RMP or another less expensive paint alternative would do just fine. 

David Kagan

Mike
 
Nice job on the index.  It is  a great resource.
 
I have two designs that I would like to get included in the index and would like to know how to do that.
 
Both designs are slightly under 8  feet and one is a canoe and the other a kayak.  Both designs have a free  manual and offsets.  I do  offer full scale templates for the kayak if people want them.
 
The boats are called the JAM 8 and RIP  8.  More information at www.synergyboatworks.com. 
 
Thanks for your help.
 
 
Ed Sutt

Chuck,

Thanks for publishing the historical articles from time to time. I really loved reading Stan Roberts' article about the voyages of the Chinese junks and seeing the photos of some of the artifacts. The difference in the size of ships that the Chinese built and sailed and what the Europeans built and sailed is really striking. And regardless of who sailed where first, I have to take my hat off to all of those early explorers. It had to have taken a lot of guts and determination to make those voyages. I'm amazed at the construction techniques of the Chinese and how they were able to build such big ships, all with no epoxy!

Paul

Hey Tom, well done! Both the article and the trip. I've been too tied up with work lately to read or write much Duckworks, so it was a real pleasure to come back to your series.

Best,
--Rob

Hello Chuck,

Here is a quick summary of the Eastern Messabout last weekend (June 3-4-5) at Elk Neck State Park, MD. We had good weather, a fine turn out, lots of sailing, even more build and sail stories, and found many friends - new and old. I think it was pretty much a consensus .. "we had a ball .. let's do it again"!

At least three dozen skippers brought nearly four dozen boats and there were sixty or so overall in attendance, including several families, two of which covered three generations. When Steve Bosquette and I arrived mid-morning Friday a few folks were already there and Paul & Bill Moffitt were already off sailing Paul's bi-plane sail catamaran. Winds were about 7 - 11 from the NNW with sunshine and 75d. As the afternoon unfolded others arrived, including Eric Hughes in his lovely Cape Island Pilot Boat (the only power boat), loaded with grills, hot dogs & fixins for a complimentary arrival supper. Assisted by Bob Crifasi (Potter 15) and Steve Kaba (Sanabel 18), Eric fed us all as folks jotted down their info at the canopy Steve had set up, and many launched and sailed until sunset. At least two dozen were on hand by then, with 14 campsites up on the Elk Loop and three sleeping aboard. We watched Norm Wolf sail his Michalak "Norm's Boat" across to Cabin John Creek for the night, steering clear of a large barge towed by a tug.

By Sat. morning the wind shifted around to the SW, up the river from the Chesapeake proper, and later to SSW and due S, across the water and on shore for our beach. More boats and skippers arrived and by mid-morning there was a splendid variety of craft on the beach or out on the water. There will be a full article with lots of pictures in a few weeks, but to give you an idea, there were three PDR's, including Tom Maurer's father-son build first splash. There were also three sailing canoes, each well sailed and quite capeable on the big water. There were three or four kayaks, including one "SOF" - skin on frame. Dinks and day-sailors numbered at least a dozen, including a 5'10" "Tardis", a Pacific Pelican and a variety of designs; plus two lovely, traditional catboats. There was a splendid 24' "Sharpton Barge", a Pete Culler design built nearly 20 years ago by Jim McKelvey, a Michalak Oracle "pulling boat" ably rowed by Ted Kilsdonk, and an experimental "ship of the line". Pocket cruisers numbered eight .. Potters, the Sanabel, the Norm's Boat, and my Wanderer - now sailing with fixed twin keels and a new set of sails (sprit main) made from the heavy stuff boat yards use for winter cover.

Way too much to do folks justice here. It rained Sat. night, though not heavy. There was some more sailing and even more talk Sun. morning as people broke camp and pulled boats. The really satisfying thing was the easy, helpful, happy ambiance .. just a splendid group of people. And with a good venue and good weather, it just blossomed. I've attached just one picture here and will try to give a fuller report with pictures soon.

Bob Throne
co-organizer with Steve Bosquette

Some years back, I was anchored in that "vagrants' corner" someplace in Newport Harbor. The one where you are not allowed to leave your boat, and the locals sort of look away, when you wave at 'em from. We were three boats travelling in company. One, a nearly new Ericson 35, and the other two: a long in the tooth Columbia 26 and my old but far from infirm Ranger 26. We were headed north and were motoring—is there any other way to get from SDGO to there in a sailboat? Anyhow, I had a magazine aboard with an ad for a partial cort nozzle setup that was supposed to add thrust to your outboard. We pulled into Nwpt and I found a payphone and called the number in the ad. Turns out the guy lived in the area, and brought us two sets down to the ferry landing there. Pretty cool customer service.

Like I was saying, we were swinging on the hook and now I had to drill, tap, and mount these quadrants to the planing plates of two outboards—from the dink. Somehow, I did manage to get both of these contraptions mounted without dropping anything in the water. A pretty good imitation of doing the impossible. While I was out there bouncing up and down off Goldplatertown, the Harbor 20 fleet decided to use us as a turn mark. Gobs and gobs of H-20s started rounding up and gibing with the tails of their booms grazing my backside while I was out there hanging over the gun'l of a wormy-by-nature foldboat. A while before, I had discovered that a used H-20 main was just the right size for my Ranger 26. In fact, by then I had several thousand miles on that used sail and it was still "new" to me. I was rather proud of my full-battened main, and how I could blow the hatches off just about anything under 35'. Anyhow.

I looked up to see the H-20 with "my" sail number going past my elbow. So, to be neighborly, I told the lady doing the jib sheet work that I had her old sail on my boat. I told her just how far it had taken my boat—you know, the one built in 1976 (about 30 years old at that time.) Whereupon, she sniffed a, "Why yes, we get new sails two or three times a year…" Didn't I feel like Red Skelton holding his stogie with a toothpick?

Dan

The 10th Annual Lake Charles Messabout and Small Boat Gathering will be held at the Lake Charles Yacht Club on August 13, 2011.  For information on how get to the club, go to: www.lakecharlesyachtclub.com .

To comment on Duckworks articles, please visit our forum