I've been using the Veritas Cyclone lid ("c" version in catalog) from Lee Valley for several years now. Relatively inexpensive, and works great with my shop vac. I like it because is sits nicely on top of a 32 gallon trashcan instead of a 5 gallon pail like some I've seen. A 5 gallon pail is too small in my opinion for any planer or jointer operations, and the "a" and "b" versions are too large for my purposes.
On the theme of dust collection, a rinsable HEPA filter for my Shop Vac was worth the money. Expensive, but has been durable and easily cleaned.
What Stays Unstuck
Most of the time you want your glue to stick to something, but it's also nice to know what it doesn't stick to. I got some major glue ups to do soon and this is gonna come in quite handy! I awoke this morning to a pleasant surprise. Titebond III doesn't stick to packing tape.
This is a follow up FYI regarding the hatches I posted about installing in my Oozegooze, the Minnow.
To refresh - there were three different styles of hatches I installed. Two of them were smaller. The larger ones, I have to report, leak badly.
I've had to remove over an inch of rain out of some compartments numerous times, while it sat on a trailer in my yard.
Moreover, the latches have to be flipped up to open the hatches and, if you do not remember to flip them down, it is very easy to snap them off. I've broken 3 of the 8 latches on my set of four hatches.
They also are less sturdy than I'd like, with some flex when you step on them.
In addition, the price has just shy of doubled since I purchased them a year ago.
On this info, I cannot recommend these hatches I purchased.
However, I think I've found an alternative. These hatches seem to have a similar design and based on that one they seem to deal with the issues I have. In addition, when open the access hole is larger.
They have more reinforcing ribs on the underside of the hatch, the edges on the hatch shed water rather than channeling it to the seal.
I've planned to get a set of them and replace the baron hatches on my boat becfore the R2AK in june, once I get some spare money.
Here's how I transport plywood sheets from the Home Depot with my little car.
Have you got gray weathered teak and want it to look better without nasty chemicals and a lot of work? I have a simple, easy and cheap solution and it doesn't take the skin off your hands or ruin your paint or gelcoat. It is called Krud Kutter. Just spray it on and wipe it off a minute later. In the 1st photo, the teak on the left hasn't been treated the right had a quick spray and a wipe with a piece of terrycloth. The next photo shows the rag and all the oxidized gray matter that came off with an easy wipe. In the 3rd photo, the left end of the board has been cleaned 3 times, the center section (between the 2 upper screws) has been cleaned twice and the section above 11zB has been cleaned once. This stuff cleans up chalky oxidized paint or gelcoat with ease and no fumes. It also kills mildew in your cabin or storage lockers and on cushions.
If you have two machines taking up room you can make this a flipover tabel. One side is a mortizer and the other side is a sandingdisk.
It's balanced so it flips easy.
This part rests on top.
This part is fastened under. It just needs some latches which I am working on.
Hilbert Gorte from the Netherlands.
Several people have asked for details of the electric bilge pump I built for bailing my Goat Island Skiff in a hurry. I put this little video together to show the basic idea. I still carry a good bucket for backup but this pump takes the pressure off when conditions are rough or I'm tired, usually both. The pump moves a lot of water fast as it uses a 1200GPH bilge pump without significant head and only 3ft of hose. And, yes it floats.
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